Bissau
15 december 2022
My first impressions of Bissau:
There is development work going on all over the city as the drive to improve roads and gentrify the old Portuguese town area, goes on at scale. This creates a red dust everywhere; its in the air, on your clothes and on your feet. It also creates an atmosphere of mystic and slight craziness as you dodge workmen digging, huge trenches and endless machines. I get the distinct feeling that I have arrived at a place that has stood still for decades and has just had the go ahead to move forwards - might have something to do with the current prime minister working to fulfil his goals before the imminent elections.
Despite this though, the atmosphere in the old town area where I am staying is calm, relaxed and vibrant. Last night I joined a local crowd at a hotel restaurant where we watched the France / Morocco football match. Goals were scored and Morocco the favourites, lost - so all went home quietly.
Buying a ticket for the boat to the islands
I went to the port area this morning to buy a ticket for Babaque Island. The ticket office was opposite the first port entry. The boat leaves tomorrow morning (Fri) at 8:00 and takes about 4 hours. I've booked a hostel 'Wefa' on the southern coast of the island. I have no idea what to expect.
Getting a Guinea Conakry visa
I then visited the Guinea embassy to get a visa for the next stage of my journey. I met the consulate, Kalil, and asked him to help me apply for the visa online using his laptop.
Some tips for success:
1. use all lower case letters in your email address
2. use a Guinea Bissau address not your home address - your hotel address is fine
3. have the name of a hotel in Conakry to add - you do not need to show a booking confirmation
4. you need a yellow fever certificate to up load
5. you need a COVID vaccination cert to upload
6. you need a digital photo to upload
7. you need a copy of your passport to upload
8. be prepared to pay by credit card - you'll be asked to authorise the payment via your payment App
9. be patient with the email responses - check Spam for these. Some of mine took two hours to come through.
10. keep Kalil onside - he can contact Conakry if it goes wrong.
I have asked for a three month visa starting from tomorrow, to give maximum flexibility of when I enter and leave Guinea.
Visiting the old town and fort
The old town streets form an enclave which exudes Portuguese charm and colonial influence. I love the architecture of these settlements and the crumbling facades that are now evident; the balconied terraces, the merchants' houses, the old cinema, the church. All remind you of the Portuguese influence and the importance of this town as a port and trading centre.
Amongst these historical facades are the new buildings of the independent Guinea Bissau; the presidential palace, the monument to independence, the 'soviet like' fist. All exist in stark contrast to the rest, defiant and bold.
I'm pleased to have seen the old town and the centre as it is today. I think in a year or two Bissau will become a must see tourist attraction, with the manicured centre to attract its visitors. For now it remains rather ramshackle and spontaneous. It takes time to find the banks, the bread shop, restaurants. They are there though - behind the delusions of decay.
Yesterday, I ate great home made pizza in the restaurant at the Hotel Kaliste, and this evening, I had the best breaded white bait ever at the Oasis Restaurant.
