Bijagos Islands-Bubaque

16 december 2022

 The Bijagos Islands
Located 48km off the Guinea Bissau coast, the 12,950-sq-km Bijagos archipelago encompasses 88 islands and islets. Less than a quarter are inhabited year-round, with some islands, like João Vieira, welcoming seasonal inhabitants to cultivate rice and palm oil, while others, such as Poilão, are deemed sacred, with staying overnight strictly forbidden.

The Bijagos were not annexed into Portuguese Guinea until 1936. With only a sole generation of loose colonial rule, the current 35,000-strong Bijagos population have maintained a strong sense of traditional identity, culture and centuries-old idiosyncrasies. Women have important roles in the culture of these islands and hold positions of responsibility and ownership within the communities.

Since 1996, the archipelago has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. From its coastal savannah, thick palm groves and untouched beaches to its maze of mudflats, sprawling mangrove forests and rich waters, the unique ecological situation and remote location has enabled biodiversity to explode. The treetops provide accommodation for local and migratory birds, including lapwings, terns, hornbills and fish eagles. Monkeys, wild pigs and pygmy cows the size of dogs roam the islands’ floors. Its waters are home to manatees, rays, dolphins, sharks, giant turtles and even rare saltwater hippos. Then there’s the fish.

I was intrigued; and wanted to find out more about these islands for real.

Travelling to the Bijagos Islands

To get to the Island of Babaque, I took the ferry from Bassia port this morning at 08:00. The one way trip cost 16,500CFA and took four hours, sailing across smooth waters and eventfully weaving through and close to islands before docking at the small jetty in Babaque village. I'd been told that the embarkment process would be a hassle and chaotic. This was not the case - everyone got on calmly and found their space. The boat was not packed and there was plenty of space for everyone including luggage. As we were preparing to leave, the sun rose behind the nearest island - an indicator of the sights to be seen later. Throughout the journey here was a warm friendly atmosphere on board with mainly locals travelling back and forth, some to spend the weekend on the islands.

Accommodation
I purposefully took Nico's recommendation to stay with Fatu at her Weifa - Natural Beach Camp on Bruce Beach. It's locally owned and located on the other side of the island to the main village on a beautiful pristine and long beach.
Fatu was on the ferry so introduced herself to me and made sure I knew where to go when we got to the jetty. In fact the 4x4 from her place was waiting right by the jetty and we pulled away with another Bissau couple, shortly after landing.
The journey to the beach camp was along the untarred road which runs the length of the island. Its about 6km away from Babaque village.

At the end of the road you meet the beach and the sea - amazing. Then you bare left and drive to the rooms built on the edge of the beach. Its an amazing location and really relaxed. The rooms are clean and simple with beach / sea views. You can sit outside on a range of tables, couches, hammocks... with very few people around. There is a great cook who makes different versions of fish and rice/chips/salad for lunch and dinner. The breakfast is omelette, toast and crepe with melon. There is a really good WIFI connection!

This evening I walked the length of the beach and could have walked all around the island - the beach is unbelievable. Clean, fringed by palm trees and mangrove and full of different birds. I saw lots of herons and eagles just on this one walk. The sunset was amazing.

I went to sleep to the sound of the waves through the open window - quite magical