Nouadhibou

9 november 2022

Today I did the train journey from Zouerat to Nouadhibou - after an epic and hilarious wait from 13:00 to 20:00 when the train eventually departed.

I bought last minute essential - water and food. I packed all my belongings and added the blanket and plastic sheets to my pack. Jed and I set off to the station at F'Derik to wait. It soon became obvious that the 13:00 train was not going to be running. There were 'technical problems' so I would need to wait for the later arriving train. We then met the station master and his assistant, Jamil who suggested to Jed that I stay in the station office and they would make sure I was put on the train safely.

The wait dragged on - I shared couscous with the men at the station, copious cups of tea and then just before he train arrived had a quick drive around the surrounding desert area with the station master, who showed me the lake, the got herders and the scenery. All this happened just before the train pulled into the station.

I was helped into the fifth wagon from the front. The station master flattened the iron ore, laid out the plastic bags and the blanket, checked my rucksack was in place and made sure I was comfortable. He then got out of the wagon and into his Toyoto. He drove quickly to the manual levers needed to align the tracks and made everything ready for a safe departure. I felt like a queen as we pulled out of the station - a departure in the dark which was different to my initial plans.

The evening was quite incredible. Perched onto of the iron ore, and lit by a full moon and a sky of stars, I had the wonderful experience of adventure and exhilaration.

The night passed beautifully - I was cozy in my warm clothes and sleeping back and protected against the wind by my plastic jacket and trousers. I'd made a bed along the side of the wagon protected against the wind.

The sun rose over the desert - WOW.

Throughout the rest of the journey I was able to see the expanse of the desert, the nomad settlements and just marvel at the length of this train carrying tons of iron ore over a distance of 700km.

An incredible and memorable experience.

When the train stopped a taxi pulled up. I donated my blanket to the cause and dumped my rucksack in the boot. Back at the hotel I showered and cleaned all my belongings. What a trip.

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