Jemberen
20 december 2022
Yesterday, I came to the bus terminal (garage) to find out more information about transport to Jemberen. I arrived early at 6:00 in the hope that a bus would be leaving some time to some where near to the village.
It seems that there is a direct bus to the village on Mon / Tues / Sat. This Tuesday morning, I was lucky. One arrived, I bought a 6500CFA ticket and a guy guided me in the right direction. We left at 7:00 but got held up for a while on the outskirts of Bissau when the driver forgot to put the brake on an we rolled back a little and hit another bus! Once this was resolved we got on the road - a dusty journey winding on and off the tarmac of this pot holed road way. Many people wear masks - the COVID ones to provide some protection from the dust.
On route we stopped at Mampata so that the passangers could get food and at Quebo, before entering the National Park of Cantanhez. In Mampata, I met the man who'd helped me in Bissau - he again helped me to find somewhere to change some money. There is always a way to get some local currency in GB.
The National Park of Cantanhez is over 1000 sq kms of rainforest. It has a dense web of kapok trees, lianas and palm trees. It is home to elephants, baboons, buffaloes, colobus monkeys, a troupe of chimpanzees and hundreds of species of birds. Within this rainforest area are numerous small villagers where the local tribes have lived off the produce of the forest for centuries.
Arriving in Jemberem was like ending up in another world. On a dusty road side next to a small number of shops, I needed to get orientated. There was a map showing the layout of the NP and the location of the villages.
I asked for Bubaka Sara at one of the shops - she was there and took me to the Ecotourist bungalows at the back of the village. There are three, painted pink and located next to a central circular meeting shelter. They have some running water, electricity in the evening and are simply equipped. 15,000CFA per night.
I bought bread from the local shop - I later learnt that you could organise meals if you talk to the family in the small building adjacent to the site.
I asked to meet Mamadu Casama, a guide recommended by Helen, who turned up at my bungalow in the evening. We agreed a days trip leaving at 07:00 for 5000CFA.
