Bissau

19 december 2022

I spend a morning with a group of military officers based at the Fortaleza d'Amura in the centre of old town Bissau - its the original fort encampment used as the military base and currently surrounded by the development of an upgraded road system funded and managed by a Chinese company.

I was wanting to know more about the years leading up to GB gaining independence particularly as this country had been severely effected when Antonio Salazar, took over as Prime Minister in Portugal from 1932 - 1968. The country experienced a long 'war of liberation' for GB and Cape Verde fought on GB soil. Many GB people were recruited to fight for the Portuguese which potentially caused divisions between families and villagers.

There were a number of leaders striving to move the country towards independence from Portuguese rule - striving for the aspiration of a more socialist governance that would bring unity and equity to the country. Their memorials are in the grounds of the fort including that of Amilcar Cabral, who in 1956 helped to form the Partido Africano da Independenecia da Guine e Cabo Verde (PAIGC) and members of the party such as Titina Silia, who fought in the resulting wars against the Portuguese military. Titina is considered to be a role model and martyr for GB independence having been killed by a Portuguese military member on her way to Amilcar's funeral.

Captain Jose Nhaga showed me round and explained the developments in GB's history during this period. He let me see the artefacts collected from the days of the struggles; weapons and equipment used by the liberation armies and mainly supplied by Russia. There is also a old UN tank and some of the firing stands used by the Portuguese army.

A very informative visit and made all the more interesting by Jose's personal stories.

This evening I moved to the Pension Creole, owned and managed by a Portuguese man and his family who have been in GB for years. Here I met Helen (Swiss) and Chloe (UK), two researchers who coincidently live in the remote village of Jemberen in the East of GB where I will be visiting next. They explained their research into the cultures and traditions of the people living in the forested area and how the villagers live with a sophisticated interrelationship with nature. Helen had been living in the village for 7 years and is very integrated now training the guides in the local National Park. Chloe has been living there for 4 years and is particularly focussing her research on the relationship between the people and animals in the forest. Amazing young women - dedicating their lives to understanding more through actively engaging in the lives of these villagers and both speaking fluent Portuguese creole. It was a real honour to meet them particularly ahead of my visit. As they head off to Europe for their holidays, I'll be heading to their village to get a glimpse of how they live.