Macanet to La Jonquera

17 JUNE 2023

I slept so well in my tent last night. I always feel clear headed, fresh, fit and ready for the day ahead on days like this.

I packed up and walked into Macanet de Cabrenys village where I sat with the village elders to have a tea and croissant.

The walk to La Vajol is through woodland of cork trees, their lower trunks having been shaved of their barks to feed this industry. It's very hot today and I feel the weight of the extra water I'm carrying. At La Vajol, I sit on the terrace of the Ca La Conxita restaurant. This village and restaurant have a 'lost in time' feeling - its oldy-worldy and very friendly. As I'm now in the border area between France and Spain, the history of Catalonian resistance to Franco's regime is obvious and deeply rooted in the culture of the area.

Santa Eugenia is another church set up in the mountains and away from any settlement. I sat here to rest before heading towards the border area. On the way I passed the Mina Canta - the old talc mine which at the outbreak of civil war was understood to become the warehouse where the paintings from the Prado Museum were stored along with other important treasures, which supposedly were shipped to Mexico for safe keeping. It is believed that President Negrin (1937 - 1939) passed through this area along with thousands of other refugees making their way to France in 1939.

La Jonquera is a typical border town and had a rougher feel about it. I took a room for 35 euros in the first pension I found - there were supermarkets and bars along the main street. I ate sepia and chips at one of them.