Penjikent

17 August 2012

I returned to a wonderful warm welcome at the Guest House

I returned to a wonderful warm welcome at the Guest House in Penjikent after spending nearly three weeks trekking in the Fann Mountains.

There were many highlights: one was the two days I spent with shepherds in the upper valley above the seven lake area. I met the owner of the 1300 herd of goats and sheep and he invited me to join his manger, two sons and the two shepherds. It was an incredible sight to see this huge herd decent over the high peaks and assemble in the apex of the valley on the first evening. They had been guided by one older shepherd who controlled this flock using his knowledge of the hills and each animal, his physical fitness and a high pitched whistle...We slept on the sheltered side of a huge rock, slaughtered a goat which had broken its leg and cooked its heart, kidneys and meat mixed with potatoes, onions and tomatoes over an open fire. I never thought I would find myself assisting in the dissection of a goat! I even had to hold the torch over its body as the shepherds prepared the meat for cooking...

The second highlight was trekking over the Alauddin pass. At 3850m you can look back to the beautiful green Kalikalon lakes and forwards to the deep blue lakes of Alauddin. All around you are the mountains with these lakes nestling deep in the valleys.

 Another highlight was trekking along the Chapdata valley and seeing the apricot and apple orchards in each village. The people were busy hay making so in many fields the whole family was out working to cut and bundle the grass ready for the winter.

I finished the trek at Lake Iskanderkol, a wonderful scenic alpine lake. I camped beside the lake in the grounds of an old Soviet holiday camp. This place is slowly reinventing itself as a tourist place and provided much needed hot showers and great food.