Ikeja

27 MARCH 2023

'The cash palarver' has become a thing in Nigeria. All over the country there is a shortage of cash and people are queuing for a long time outside banks to try to get restricted amounts out of cashpoints.

Today, I decided to go to the airport to sort out my own cash flow. Using an international credit card to withdraw money is proving pointless or impossible; everything has to be paid for by pin from a Nigerian bank or cash.

Whilst in Ikeja, I visited the living and performance compound of the late Fela Kuti who chose to follow his love of music, trained at Trinity College in the UK and returned to Nigeria to create the Afrobeat style. He used his music to spread his views on imperialism, colonialism, racism and conformity to local people, becoming a respected legend for many particularly during the 70s. His family have carried on Fela's vision and mission by running the compound as a museum/live performance centre for performing arts and political education. The Fela (New Africa) shrine, draws followers and performers and is the focus for the annual Felafestival.

A fascinating place with a well informed guide. Young musicians work in the compound during the day and perform in the evening in the building's roof terrace. Everyone I met said that Fela's lyrics are still relevant today.