Blantye

9 February 2024

When I emerged from the mini bus at the Mozambique border post, I was surrounded by the usual hassle of men trying to sell their money exchange and guiding services. It’s possible to walk alone to the exit post and then get a motor bike taxi to the Malawi border post across a no-mans land of green countryside.  

I learnt that I was one of the last foreigners to cross with an evisa. Malawi was joining South Africa in issuing an automatic visa on entry for foreign tourists with my passport. These visa restrictions seem to be part of the changes taking place to ease migration north and welcome tourists in.

Blantye was hot and humid with intermittent rain. I stayed in the centre at the wonderful old colonial villa which is Henderson Street Guest House. From here I was able to walk into town to explore. It was easier to connect with people here as English is spoken widely. My first stop was the Kwa Haraba creative space with its brilliant café where Twali outlined Malawi’s issues and her hopes for the country’s future. She talked of the poverty, population growth, cultural segregation, and environmental breakdowns, which are pushing the country’s people to now think more collectively, sustainably and strategically.