Conakry

22 december 2022

Today was one to remember - it's hard to believe that you can pack so much into just a day!!

At 07:30, I got into a 4x4 with the caretaker and his friend from the Ecotourist encampment. They were heading towards Gandembel where the border crossing is for Guinea. Getting transport is a gift here, so I'd been really pleased to be offered this lift along the 46km of dirt track. I was dropped off at the customs house in Gandembel village where I met Florentimo, the first of a few officers who seemed more intent on making a few extra bucks than doing their job. He tried very hard to make out that I would need to pay a large some of money for a motorbike driver to take me distances to stages of the border crossing that made no sense on my map. Eventually he did give up - and admitted he was just after 'a gift'. I gave him a pen instead.

The proper check point, the passport office and a sensible older officer who speaks French, are all along the track when you first turn right. You can walk to the police check point where you get the passport stamp for leaving Guinea Bissau - it's a hut on the right of the track. Police always wear blue camouflage clothes not green.
From here onwards you need transport so I began to negotiate a price for a motorbike taxi - the people at the hut can arrange this. I agreed 10,000CFA to Boke. Whilst waiting for the motorbike to arrive, I started to walk along the track and entered another small village.

A man called out to me in fluent English with an east London accent. He introduced himself as Nas; the son of an army officer and someone who had been able to get an education in Portugal and live and work in London. He explained how he'd done delivery jobs in the morning and gone to college to learn English in the afternoons. Nas had returned to his village two years ago to find a wife and was planning to get married soon. Quite by chance, I'd taken a photo of his wife-to-be on my way. He explained the differences between life in England and life in his village to the friends that had gathered to listen. It was joyful to speak so freely again in a common language. I also asked about the taking of photos. I sensed that people were reticent to have their photos taken. He agreed that this was shyness and them being unsure. With his permission I was able to take shots of his group and the two fishermen that had joined us.

I go on the back of the motorbike and off we sped. The journey was along rutted tracks, up and down slopes, across two small rivers, and then a stop at the first check point. This officer asked for 10,000CFA and to see my documents. I refused to give any money, sat down at his desk when he persisted and waited for him to say we could go. This happened quickly and we were on our way. We had another occasion where an officer wanted to fine my driver for not having a rear license plate. Judging by Therno's response, a shrug and silence, I think he's quite used to this erratic behaviour.

It's a long distance between the two police immigration posts and there is a wide river to cross just before you reach the Guinea one. This involves putting the motorbike and people into a canoe to be rowed across the water. I was not prepared for this at all - I joined three motorbikes, four passengers and three motorbike drivers as two men rowed us across in their wooden canoe. Amazing. I paid 5000CFA for the crossing.

Guinea immigration was on the other bank in a hut. A very friendly policeman asked to see my COVID certificate - I showed him the one I got in Mauritania and he was happy to let me pass. Another border crossed with little to no hassle.

We sped on through small villages, over bumps and through check points until eventually reaching Boke. We'd come 140km in 4 hours on dusty red sand tracks through the rain forest. I was covered and Therno looked like he'd come out of some underground mine dressed in a thick coat, woolly hat, glasses and mask. I was indebted to his driving skills and faith that I would just cling on. He's obviously used to carrying all sorts of luggage - people, items and livestock.

In Boke, I changed my CFA to Guinea francs at a money changers in the market. We then headed to the garage so that I could find transport on to Conakry. Here Therno and I parted company and I added a tip to his payment. We had a photo shoot to mark the successful end of this incredible border crossing. Here's to another country and the return to French.

I shared a taxi with five others for 85,000GNF heading to Conakry. I was immediately aware of better road conditions and greenery every where. We were still driving through extensive rainforest and small villages - it was beautiful in the afternoon light made even better as the passengers were singing along to the Guinea music playing on the car radio. On route we passed through Boffa, a port with a very visible Chinese presence around the oil refinery and mining depositories. We crossed a number of bridges which span gorges across rivers where people were washing clothes, bikes, animals and themselves. We eventually crossed a bigger river, the Konkoure, before heading into Conakry. By this time it was dark, and I became reliant on the driver to find my hotel. He arranged for me to transfer into a local taxi which eventually managed to find its way into Kaloum centre and navigate its way through a line of container trucks, across roads in construction, to as close to the hotel as he could get, After 13 hours of travelling, I'd made it.

I stayed at the Hotel M'Iyse in the Almamya area of Kaloum commune for 845,000GNF per night. It’s down town and right in the middle of the main road redevelopment area.